“I feel one can say with some conviction that no man should willingly leave his home to fight, wound, maim or kill other men about whom he knows little and whom he certainly does not hate. When all men refuse to commit such follies the foundations of a true civilisation will have only just started to be laid.”
- Sam Sutcliffe, circa 1974 (extracted from his Memoir)
Showing posts with label Sidi Bishr. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sidi Bishr. Show all posts

Sunday, 17 January 2016

While the Battalion counts the cost of Gallipoli and regroups near Alexandria, Sam the ex-Boy Scout does his innocent abroad routine in another Red Light district…

For details of how to buy Sams full Memoir in paperback or e-book & new excerpted Gallipoli episode mini-e-book & reader reviews see right-hand column
All proceeds to British Red Cross

For AUDIO excerpts click Here  Join Foot Soldier Sam on Facebook Here

Dear all

A hundred years ago this week… the body count rose steadily on Western and Eastern Fronts without major actions (bar, perhaps, a German offensive near Neufville-St Vaast, January 23, and a Russian advance in East Poland, 21).
    But in the Caucasus, the relentless Russian advance against the Ottoman Army begun on January 10 continued with, thus far, no effective Turkish reinforcements arriving from Gallipoli – thousands of casualties accrued from combat and frostbite.
    In fact, Russian forces continued to be the focus of new developments. One rather odd report whereon I can find no elaboration says that, January 17-22, Russian torpedo boats sank 185 “sailing ships” in the Black Sea. And the Romanian Government opened negotiations with them re military assistance (22)… as the Russian Army captured Keupri-Keui, Armenia (17; they’d lost it to Turkey in December, 1914; now in Bulgaria it seems)… and Sultanabad as their next step into west Persia (20).
    Balkan action re-erupted as a brief armistice between Austria and Montenegro ended and the Austrians resumed invasion by occupying Antivari (January 22), Podgoritza and, over the Albanian border, Scutari (23).
    Down in Mesopotamia (now Iraq), the British/Indian Army suffered another grim setback (January 21) in its attempt to relieve the besieged 10,000-strong garrison at Kut, south-west of Baghdad, when the relief force, also 10,000 men, followed the costly Battle Of The Wadi (13) by running into 30,000 Ottoman troops at Hanna. The British/Indians charged across open, flooded land beside the Tigris into machine-gun fire and suffered 2,741 casualties to the Ottomans’ 503.
    The world-ness of WW1 asserted itself further as the skirmishing naval Battle Of Lake Tanganyika concluded its first month and the German Army evacuated Cameroon, yielding to the British and French.
    Meanwhile, those who remained of the 2/1st City Of London Battalion, Royal Fusiliers, including my father, Lance Corporal Signaller Sam Sutcliffe from Edmonton, north London (still under-age at 17), found themselves knocking about in Egypt, unsure what came next, but perfectly clear that their current conditions comprised a big improvement on getting frozen by blizzards, starved by the ineptitude of the British Army, and shelled and shot at by the Turks in Gallipoli.

FOOTSOLDIERSAM SPEAKS

Last week, my father described the delights of de-lousing at a place called Sidi Bishr, near Alexandria, where an ingenious device pumped steam through their clothes and killed both the bugs and their eggs – while the men endured the blow-torch sensation of having their privates painted with creosote to kill off unwanted residents. Still skinny from chronic under-feeding in Gallipoli and equipped with little more than the clothes they stood up in, a week or so later, my father wrote, the Battalion remnants found themselves “in camp somewhere near Alexandria”:

‘… the rag-and-tag fag end of what had been a Battalion of volunteer soldiers, close on a thousand, less than a year ago*. Over the next 14 weeks, a few men rejoined us, fellows who had recovered from wounds or sickness. They brought our strength up to around 250.
    Many had died, of course. But, when talking of such matters, we who had soldiered on to the end of the Gallipoli campaign preferred to hope that some of those absent still lurked in pleasant places, enjoying a good living and soft jobs in the land of the Pharaohs. “Good luck to‘em,” was our wish, if indeed they did still exist. We had no means of finding out what had happened to them. We merely hoped they had been transferred to other units for various reasons, or were still receiving medical treatment.
    During our first weeks free of the battlefield’s constant threat and danger, some of us could not shake off the habit of being constantly alert, ready to run, fall, take a dive, or make any swift move to ensure continuity of our so-valuable-to-us lives. Natural-born survivors, we few, I suppose, and, whatever people like Sergeant Majors and such may have thought of our several contributions to the whole war effort, we fortified our consciences by recalling the creditable or, sometimes, comical actions and situations in which we had participated, while conveniently concealing, by silence, events we suspected might not qualify us for honourable mention.
    We took stock of our belongings and discovered we lacked many items which, in more orderly circumstances, we used to lay out for kit inspection. When preparing for active service, we had been told to pack certain necessaries into our packs and haversacks. The remainder we left in our kitbags stacked in some out-of-the-way place and, to my knowledge, never saw again. Ordinarily, we would have had to bear the considerable cost of their replacement but, the loss being no fault of ours, we were promised free replacements.
    I had no clothing but what I was wearing and that in poor condition, so I put in for a complete new kit. We secured nothing at that time, but had established our need of new gear without charge.
    Military paupers indeed, and we looked and felt the part. We’d had no pay for months and still got none, so, when a pal called Miller suggested a visit to Alexandria, we two got there by walking and cadging the occasional lift in an Army vehicle – horse-drawn, they were.
    From our previous visit to Egypt, I still had a few coins left totalling two and a half piastres, worth about sixpence at that time. As we wandered, this hoard of cash procured for me three small eggs and two sweet cakes in a market and a glass of beer in a bar.
    In this latter place, we two sat among Arabs of various types, some prosperous and well-dressed in robes and fezzes. Several of them hired hookahs, with their glass water containers standing on the floor. The long, flexible tube leading up to the mouthpiece gripped between their teeth, each smoker, with much solemn care, conducted the elaborate routine of igniting the tobacco leaf in its hollow, surrounded by a small quantity of glowing charcoal. An air of content and much wisdom settled on their faces as soon as their miniature smoke factories became operative.
    Other customers talked loudly and animatedly, while a few once more intrigued me by counting circular strings of beads the while they muttered prayers – before Gallipoli, I had seen men do this in Cairo. Perhaps they had converted to the Roman Catholic faith? Or do followers of the Prophet Mohammed also practice this ritual**, known as “telling the beads” among Catholic youngsters I knew in childhood.’

When they move on, these lads, innocents abroad despite what they’ve been through – Sam still only 17 and very much the ex-Boy Scout – find themselves in an exotic social situation that baffles them. WARNING: bad language approaching, when the truth dawns on them…

‘Thereafter, penniless, we two swells wandered around the town, which we rated less interesting than Cairo. As we strolled aimlessly, a boy joined us. Probably nine or ten years old, he wore a dark-grey Norfolk jacket – popular casual wear for males of all ages at that time – shorts and, below the knees, hose with turned-down coloured tops and short-sided boots; a white shirt with a knitted, striped tie completed his neat outfit. He spoke good English, though with a strange accent – soon explained when he said he was Russian. At that tender age, he was already tri-lingual, French being his favourite, he explained.
    When he invited us to visit his home, we felt pleased and excited. The prospect of spending an hour or two in civilian surroundings fulfilled a longing – a desire to return, however briefly, to the old life at home – about which we seldom spoke for fear of being dubbed soft. Absence had illuminated our memories of life in peacetime, attractive glowing pink edges coloured our mental visions of people and places we used to know in that far-distant past.
    The boy led us to a flat on the first floor of a fairly large block. He introduced us to his three sisters, small girls, probably aged between 12 and 15. Their fairly large room was furnished with one or two chairs and three small beds. Uncertain, but not embarrassed, I sat down. Miller did likewise and we attempted polite conversation, but were completely defeated because the girls spoke only French.
    In England the old teapot would by now have been brought into service to ease developments, but I knew French folk favoured coffee. None was offered, though, and the girls sat around, smiling and sharing remarks and giggles between themselves. I had felt real pleasure on entering this plainly furnished yet clean flat, but now the boy had vanished and, without him as interpreter, we were sunk, no valid reason to remain. Standing up and looking at each girl preparatory to leaving, I decided they were plain as to looks and, though tiny, may perhaps have been a little older than I had at first supposed.
    Out on the gallery, from which a staircase led downwards, I glanced at the wall behind me and noticed a brass plate beside another front door. Doctor So-and-So, it said. Seeing one of the girls still standing outside the flat we’d just quit, I called out “Pourquoi ‘Doctor’?” Her reply supplied the answer to several questions I’d been asking myself. The baby voice shouted “Doctor Cunt!” So then I realised that these children were prostitutes, the Russian boy their tout, and some fat, filthy swine using them to enable him or her to live comfortably during a war which brought death and disease to millions of people.
    We commenced our return journey, passing a street famous for its brothels, Miller had heard. Its nameplate proclaimed it to be Rue Des Soeurs* – I often heard it mentioned afterwards as “Sisters Street”.’
* They’d sailed from Southampton for training in Malta, pre-Gallipoli, on February 1, 1915 – see Blog 30 February 1, 2015.
** I gather that “telling the beads” is indeed an Islamic ritual too, with strings of 33 or 99 beads called Misbaha or Tasbih.
*** Rue Des Soeurs (Sharia Saba Banat), Alexandria: for a lurid story of the area see www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20110529/life-features/A-Maltese-murder-and-the-British-occupation-of-Egypt.367869

All the best – FSS

Next week: Sam and comrades on the move again – via a rail journey in open trucks (though the officers got seats and roofs) to build a new camp on the banks of the Nile… and the edge of the Sahara!

Sunday, 10 January 2016

Sam bids his final farewell to Gallipoli – via a terrifying voyage to Alexandria… then some serious de-lousing introduces him to the thrill of having your willie painted with creosote!

For details of how to buy Sams full Memoir in paperback or e-book & new excerpted Gallipoli episode mini-e-book & reader reviews see right-hand column
All proceeds to British Red Cross

For AUDIO excerpts click Here  Join Foot Soldier Sam on Facebook Here

Dear all

A hundred years ago this week… attritional “low-key” (still deadly) winter activity continued on or near the Western Front at Lille (January 11 and 16) and Givenchy (14) while British monitors shelled the occupied Belgian port of Westeinde (15).
    The multi-faceted involvements of the Russian Army proceeded as they made headway on the Eastern Front throughout the week, and launched a fresh attack against the Ottoman Army in the Caucasus (January 10-February 16; mountains between the Black and Caspian Seas) – they began a long advance towards Erzurum, eastern Turkey, amid snow that caused thousands of frostbite casualties in order to catch the Ottomans short of manpower because their “Armenian Massacre” had reduced numbers of troops and the traders to supply them (they also hoped to win before Turkish reinforcements could move north after their defensive triumph at Gallipoli).
    Further, in their steady invasion of west Persia the Russians entered Kangavar (January 15) only to be ousted the next day – I can’t find a reference to who did the ousting, but it may have been the Turkish Army who’d just occupied Kirmanshah (13) in the same region.
    During the week the Austro-Hungarian invasion of Montenegro drew close to a conclusion when they reached the capital, Cetinje (January 13), and the Serbian Army they’d played a part in crushing shipped across from Albania to Corfu (15) – lately occupied by the French Army (11), contrary to protests from the Greek government.
    Down in Mesopotamia (Iraq), the British Army trying to relieve 10,000 comrades besieged by Turkish forces at Kut, 100 miles south-east of Baghdad, followed last week’s costly defeat at Sheikh Sa’ad with a costly victory in the Battle of Wadi (January 13; 1,600 British/Indian casualties, 500 Turkish).
    Meanwhile, the last Allied troops had evacuated Gallipoli on January 9, a Sunday 100 years ago. In the immediate aftermath, the remnants of the 2/1st City Of London Battalion, Royal Fusiliers, including my father, Lance Corporal Signaller Sam Sutcliffe from Edmonton, north London (still under-age at 17), paused and gathered their thoughts on a troopship in Mudros harbour, Lemnos. Nobody offered them a clue as to what might come next…

FOOTSOLDIERSAM SPEAKS

Last week, the roughly 200 remaining members of my father’s 1,000-man Battalion – who’d volunteered 16 months earlier – sailed away from V Beach overnight January 6-7… having sailed away from their long stint at Suvla Bay less than three weeks previously.
    Finally, the Battalion had transferred to the SS Minneapolis without setting foot ashore on the Greek island that sheltered them. There they waited:

‘We actually remained on-board the Minneapolis* for three days while more and more men boarded her as well as other waiting ships. Brother Ted did not appear, so I guessed he had already gone to Egypt.
     We few remaining Signallers did two-hour spells on the bridge each night, in pairs, and I became familiar with the names of several ships in the vicinity including, I remember, the Nestor and the Minnewaska** (the latter belonging to the same line as our ship). The ships’ officers probably did their business during daylight for most of the messages we handled came before midnight and concerned inter-ship visiting.
     Because the ship’s third officer proved extremely kind and friendly, I didn’t always bother to go below and wake up the next pair for duty when my stint ended. A steward supplied him with large helpings of coffee and sandwiches which, he pointed out, had been warmed “to take the chill out of them”– and he shared everything with us. Talking of his home, wife, children, friends, gave him and us great pleasure; he lived in a well-known Surrey town and spoke in pleasant English country accents.
     Such a lovable bloke; I learnt later that after we left the ship at Alex, she put to sea again, but half an hour out of port she was torpedoed***. The odds were that the happy family he’d talked about lost their very fine daddy. A warm heart had shared those warm sandwiches with two scruffy Tommies.
     Shortly before we left Lemnos our ship’s Captain, complete with gold braid on a smashing uniform, was rowed out to join us. The last man aboard, he stood on the platform at the bottom of the gangway for a moment, chatting with the two men in the boat. And, while I watched, something puzzling happened: a fairly big flag escaped from under his jacket, landed at his feet and opened up as he retrieved it – revealing the Stars And Stripes! As you can imagine, seeing this early in 1916 my mind got busy searching for the significance of the incident. The States were not at war at that time****…
     Finally, we set sail***** and the Minneapolis gave us a comfortable run at first. But then that violent weather which starts suddenly in the Med brought rough seas and torrential rain. There being no signalling work at sea, I’d copped a guard duty – down below, fortunately, so I kept warm and dry. While not too clear what I was supposed to be guarding, I had to patrol a long corridor. The ship reared and rolled, but no one came my way, so perhaps they all slept deeply.
     We maintained a southerly course and the rough weather came from the west for we frequently rolled sideways – further over each time. I gripped a large, door handle to help keep my footing, but at one moment I was horribly scared because the great ship lay over on her side and stayed there. “Next she’ll capsize,” I thought – nothing I could do except hang on with my feet just about able to touch the facing wall which had now become my floor, if you understand me. A few more degrees over and we would all drown, no doubt about that.
     What all the sleepy devils did during those awful minutes I never found out; probably rolled to one side of their bunks and continued snoring… But to lonely me the danger of flooding and capsize felt very real and frightening.’

At least this proved the last time Sam had reason to fear for his life… until he reached the Western Front and the Somme four months later. His immediate future offered only minor inconveniences by comparison with the Gallipoli experience:

‘It was good to see the chanting dockworkers haul two gangways into position on the quay at Alexandria and to join the queue of men slowly making their way ashore. Our contingent grouped alongside a railway track. Then we were directed into goods wagons and travelled a comparatively short distance to that dreary place called Sidi Bishr****** where we had spent a short time just before sailing for Gallipoli.
     There we had to remove all our apparel, wrap our overcoats round the lot, secure the bundles with several big safety pins, and print our names on cotton labels to identify them. Orderlies of some sort packed these bundles into goods vans connected by flexible pipes to each other and, finally – ingeniously – to the railway engine. Hot steam was thereby forced into the vans and so into the clothing. One visualised blood-gorged fat lice bursting under the pressure and derived quiet satisfaction from that hopeful justice.
     Meanwhile, we naked, skinny specimens entered a large shed with a concrete floor; facing us, several men sat on boxes, each of them with a paintbrush in hand. We formed up in single lines and, as each of us reached the painter, he dipped his brush into a bucket of dark liquid and slapped it under our armpits and around our dickies. “Creosote!” yelled somebody, and how right he was. We needed no urging to jump into the tanks of water which lay ahead of us, the first consideration being to get rid of that blasted burning fluid. After that, the coarse, yellow soap provided helped us to get clean again. We dried ourselves on linen towels and our bundles of de-loused clothes awaited us outside.
     “Shake each garment thoroughly!” yelled a Sergeant and his promise that all dampness would vanish if we did this proved correct. Not exactly mother’s washday routine, but we felt good. The ravenous lice were dead and this we really did appreciate.
     At about this point the New Year is just getting under way, so I’ll pause here as 1916 begins to offer a new set of experiences. I must decide if there is justification for recording some of them.’
* SS Minneapolis: in case you didn’t see last week’s blog… launched 1900, as part of the Atlantic Transport Line she regularly sailed between London and New York – in 1907 she conveyed Mark Twain on his last trip to Europe; requisitioned as a troopship at the start of World War I.
** SS Nestor: a Blue Funnel Line ship, launched, 1913, for the Australia run and a claimant to the “tallest ship’s funnel ever” at 80 feet; operated as a troopship by the Australian Expeditionary Force. SS Minnewaska, launched 1908/9, like Minneapolis owned by the Atlantic Transport Line running London-New York until requisitioned in 1915; damaged by a mine at Suda Bay, Crete, on November 29, 1916, beached and wrecked, but all 1,600 troops and 200 crew on board survived.
*** My father heard an inaccurate account of the Minneapolis’s demise – over-pessimistic too; a torpedo struck her on March 23, 1916, en route from Marseilles to Alexandria but, because her cargo then comprised 60 tonnes of horse fodder, rather than hundreds of troops, and she took two days to sink, “only” 12 died out of 179 men on board, so the third officer may well have survived.
**** The USA did not “enter the conflict” until April, 1917.
***** H. Montgomery Hyde’s Strong For Service, the biography of the Battalion’s then commanding officer, Major Harry Nathan (later an MP, then a Lord and Cabinet member in Attlee’s post-WW2 Labour Government), quotes one of his letters home saying the Minneapolis sailed from Mudros on January 12, 1916, and docked at Alexandria on the 14th.
****** Sidi Bishr: see Blog 62 September 13, 2015, for the original reference to this barren location.

My father really meant that last paragraph about deciding whether he should continue with his Memoir. He was in his mid-70s, afflicted for 20 years already by incurable post-operative pain from a rectal cancer operation. It left him dependent on morphine or synthetic equivalents for analgesia, so in pressing on with his writing he had to deal with pain caused by sitting (because the surgery removed his coccyx, the spine’s “tailbone”) and then with sleepiness brought on by his tablets. Given his own lack of education as a school-leaver at 14 and limited experience as a lifelong market trader/small shopkeeper, he also wondered whether the book would be worthwhile to potential readers (general or academic as the case might be) – or the recollections too painful for himself.
    Fortunately, after his pause for thought, he did continue, sometimes typing, handwriting more and more of it, always supported and encouraged by my mother, Mona… for what turned out to be another two years and 300 pages.

All the best – FSS

Next week: While the Battalion counts the cost and regroups, Alexandria offers Sam some colourful tourism – including yet another chance of the ex-Boy Scout to prove and maintain his innocence in a Red Light district…